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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.